Just one hour’s drive north of the Marsa Alam airport is a sleepy port city that has been active since the days of ancient Egypt. Called El Quesir, or the palace, this city on the sea was used by the pharaohs as a launch pad to trade with other lands, was fortified in Islamic times for defense of the coast, and is a modern day port that ferries thousands of pilgrims by boat from Egypt to Saudia Arabia for the hajj each year.

El Quesir is also a gem because of its historic buildings, excellent sea food, quiet, relaxing vibe, lack of tourists, and opportunities for scuba diving.

I recently spent two nights in El Quesir and here are the highlights I experienced—I will share where you must stay, where you must eat, and what you must do on your Red Sea sojourn.

Must stay — Mövenpick or El Quesir Hotel

El Quesir is not a vibrant tourist destination, and this is a good thing—the few places that cater to tourists here have a much more relaxed vibe than the high-pressure tourist meccas of Hurghada or Sharm-el-Sheikh. I spent two nights at two very different but amazing hotels, and which one you should stay at depends on your budget and what type of experience you want to have.

Mövenpick — best for luxury, relaxation, and diving

The Mövenpick lies a few miles north of the city, and is reachable by a transfer from the airport (which they will happily arrange) or a car/bus from Cairo or El Quesir itself. When it comes to relaxation and luxury, the Mövenpick has it all—tennis courts, a fully equipped spa, private beach, multiple pools and restaurants, and an armada of staff ready to serve your every need.

The Mövenpick also has a dive center on-site, which can arrange everything from day-trip snorkeling adventures to days-long scuba excursions. The dive center can also arrange classes for you to take to become PADI-certified while staying in an atmosphere of tranquility and opulence.

During my stay at the Mövenpick I opted for a sea-view room (highly recommended), enjoyed a luxurious body scrub, face mask, and massage at their spa, had a delicious buffet (made to order) breakfast, and relaxed along the Red Sea — all in one day and one night!

El Quesir Hotel — best for budget travelers and nostalgists

After a night at the Mövenpick I traveled into the heart of El Quesir to stay at the charming, historic El Quesir Hotel. This hotel is a converted old Islamic-style dwelling that has mashrebiya still intact and looks out over the sea. It is a family-run establishment (the family lives in the hotel and cooks all the meals, cleans, and does guest relations) and has a very laid-back vibe. The room I opted for was on the top floor, looked right out over the Red Sea, was clean, had everything I needed, and was very affordable (under $35 per night with all taxes, fees, and breakfast).

I felt like I was staying in an historic jewel, trapped in time, and the atmosphere was awesome. The hotel was within walking distance to the Citadel and to lots of restaurants and waterfront cafes, and there is a beach right across the street (although this beach is much more conservative than the private beach at the Mövenpick, however).

Divers who opt to stay at El Quesir Hotel could still take advantage of the dive center at the Mövenpick, or could work with one of several dive outfitters in El Quesir or nearby Marsa Alam or Safaga. El Queseir Hotel is the perfect choice for travelers who are more budget-conscious, who want to stay in the heart of the old city, or who want to experience staying in an authentic, historic, Islamic-style dwelling.

Must eat — Fish Restaurant El Fardous

For dinner, head no further than El Fardous, directly in the center of the city. El Fardous has indoor and outdoor dining options, with the outdoor tables literally sitting in the sand of the beach. This restaurant features made-to-order seafood dishes made with the day’s fresh catch, and made-to-order fruit juice, soft drinks, or water.

When I went, they had a smorgasbord of offerings, including lobster, crab, fish, shrimp, and squid. I opted for grilled shrimp, fried calamari, and a grilled fish. What came out was a platter fit for a king, complete with flaming “torches” on each side! I somehow managed to eat the more than 3 pounds of seafood that I ordered (I hadn’t eaten since breakfast), and this feast cost me 450 pounds, or about $28 USD. Not bad, eh? I also was given the standard bread, tahini, green salad, and I ordered a fresh strawberry juice.

Must do — The Citadel

El Quesir was fortified in Islamic times since it was an important port on the Red Sea, necessary to keep and defend. The Ottomans built a fortress here in 1571 to do just that, and the remains of this fortress still survive and have been turned into a museum. Not only does this museum give visitors an idea of what El Quesir may have been like almost five-hundred years ago, but it also contains a lot of descriptions of the history of the port, along with opportunities to get panoramic views of the city and sea.

El Quesir’s citadel is also a great kid-friendly place to visit, as there are tons of fun nooks and crannies to explore, and even an underground chamber that I was a little scared to go into alone! The Citadel is a quick walk from the beach of El Quesir Hotel and it costs 40 LE to enter (just over $2).

El Quesir may not be on most Egypt itineraries, but if you find yourself with a few extra days on the Red Sea coast and want to experience an authentic, relaxing, and interesting respite, then look no further. Ahlan wuh sahlan (welcome) to El Quesir.